Inverdoorn

We knew that a safari was on our “must-do” list while in South Africa, so we largely built our itinerary around it. Dana definitely wanted to do one too so the three of us debated whether we should try to include Kruger National Park, near Johannesburg, in our trip or stick to one of the game reserves near Cape Town. Ultimately we decided to stay closer to Cape Town so we’d have fewer flights and more time to relax here.

Though I suspect anyone who has been to Kruger would say Inverdoorn Game Reserve just doesn’t compare, we all had a great time there over the past two days. The drive from Cape Town took about three hours, including stops for pictures of the scenery, and we arrived just in time for lunch by the pool.

We chose a driving route that took us through the mountains at Bain's Kloof Pass - definitely made the drive more scenic!

We chose a driving route that took us through the mountains at Bain's Kloof Pass - definitely made the drive more scenic!

The road flattened out as we got closer to the reserve but we were still surrounded by mountains in the distance

The road flattened out as we got closer to the reserve but we were still surrounded by mountains in the distance

We had time to relax by the pool for a few hours after lunch, then we got ready for our first (of four) safaris. The schedule was arranged so that we’d do two evening and two morning safaris and we had the same ranger, Eugene, the whole time so he made sure not to take us to the same place twice. The reserve is about 20,000 acres so there were plenty of areas for us to explore! We were able to see all the different animals that Inverdoorn has on its reserve: elephants, giraffes, cheetahs, rhinos, lions, buffalo, hippos, zebra, wildebeests, kudu and springbok. The first safari definitely felt more special than the last one because we were tracking the same animals each time (Inverdoorn only has two elephants, for instance, rather than a larger herd that you would find at Kruger). Nevertheless, we had a great time driving around the reserve scouting the animals and marveling at the beautiful scenery.

Our first sighting of the elephants. The smaller one is 18 and the bigger one is 30. Eugene said they are working on getting a female elephant companion for these guys, but for now they just have each other.

Our first sighting of the elephants. The smaller one is 18 and the bigger one is 30. Eugene said they are working on getting a female elephant companion for these guys, but for now they just have each other.

Evening stroll with the elephants on day two of the safari.

Evening stroll with the elephants on day two of the safari.

A mother and baby giraffe at dawn.

A mother and baby giraffe at dawn.

On our last safari, Eugene stopped the 4x4 so we could get out and walk among the herd of giraffes.

On our last safari, Eugene stopped the 4x4 so we could get out and walk among the herd of giraffes.

We spotted a male cheetah lounging in the brush at dawn on day two.

We spotted a male cheetah lounging in the brush at dawn on day two.

The male rhino (there are also two female rhinos) with some springbok in the background.

The male rhino (there are also two female rhinos) with some springbok in the background.

The herd of buffalo approached our vehicle as we passed by slowly.

The herd of buffalo approached our vehicle as we passed by slowly.

Some zebra and springbok feeding on hay left by the rangers.

Some zebra and springbok feeding on hay left by the rangers.

We had a few quick rain showers while at Inverdoorn (though none happened while we were on safari, thankfully). Just as the rain was letting up Sarah ran out to snap this picture of a rainbow.

We had a few quick rain showers while at Inverdoorn (though none happened while we were on safari, thankfully). Just as the rain was letting up Sarah ran out to snap this picture of a rainbow.

The mountains and clouds gave us a couple of beautiful sunsets – here’s just one of them.

The mountains and clouds gave us a couple of beautiful sunsets – here’s just one of them.

One other benefit of waking up at 5:30 for the morning safaris: sunrises like this.

One other benefit of waking up at 5:30 for the morning safaris: sunrises like this.

In addition to the four safaris, we were able to participate in a “cheetah interaction” on day two. A trainer introduced us to Velvet, a five-year-old female cheetah that we were able to pet for a few minutes each. It was pretty intimidating being so close to a giant, wild cat but fortunately Velvet was in a friendly mood and we all left without a scratch.

Really not sure how this picture came out so well. Most of the time I was looking at Velvet to make sure she didn’t make any quick movements. Sarah had a quick reaction with the camera when I managed to look up!

Really not sure how this picture came out so well. Most of the time I was looking at Velvet to make sure she didn’t make any quick movements. Sarah had a quick reaction with the camera when I managed to look up!

Good girl, Velvet.

Good girl, Velvet.

Our experience at Inverdoorn was definitely one of the highlights of our entire trip. We got to observe native African animals up close in (almost) their natural habitat and the “cheetah interaction” was just amazing – never thought I’d get to play with a cheetah on a leash! Our next stop is South Africa’s famous wine country: first we’re going to Franschhoek, then the bigger city of Stellenbosch. Will be a good way to relax after a couple days in the wild!

Cape Town

The flight from Dubai to Cape Town was long (10 hours) but relatively painless. Our flight was operated by Emirates and we quickly learned that its world-class reputation for in-flight services and entertainment is well deserved. We were able to spread out – only Sarah and I occupied a three-seat bench – and pass the time catching up on movies (they had all the Oscar nominees!) until we began our descent into Cape Town.

We met our friend Dana at the airport and headed to the Gardens district to find our guest house. (By the way, Dana had almost a 24-hour journey from NYC so we really had nothing to complain about!) After we settled in, we set out to explore the neighborhood and find some dinner: Chalk & Cork caught the ladies’ eyes so we stopped there for tapas and wine before heading home to get some sleep.

We budgeted our time so that we’d have two full days in Cape Town before heading north for a safari. Our first day was earmarked for the city’s historical and cultural sights; our second day was planned around a hike to see Table Mountain. So, after filling up on breakfast at our guest house on Friday, we walked over to the District Six Museum to learn more about the atrocities of apartheid.

One of the many artifacts in the museum from the apartheid times.

One of the many artifacts in the museum from the apartheid times.

The District Six Museum provided us with a massive amount of information on the history of Cape Town and the apartheid regime. Though we thought we had a sense for the tragedies that unfolded in South Africa, we left feeling sad and devastated by the impact the social regime had on the country's citizens. After about an hour in the Museum we decided to walk further down toward the waterfront and made a quick stop at the Castle of Good Hope. We arrived just as a group of men in uniform marched in step around the castle grounds – we missed the intro so it was probably more interesting for the hundreds of school children lined up to watch!

The demonstration mostly consisted of these guys marching in formation across the castle...

The demonstration mostly consisted of these guys marching in formation across the castle...

...so we made our way to the top level to check out the views of the rest of the city.

...so we made our way to the top level to check out the views of the rest of the city.

After a quick lunch at Nando’s – a spicy chicken place we discovered in Singapore – we headed over to the Bo Kaap neighborhood. This area is known for its brightly colored houses so it didn’t take us long to find! The bright colors reminded us of some of the smaller island villages we’ve been to; we had to remember that we were actually in the middle of a big city.

Sarah snapped a picture of me and Dana in Bo Kaap.

Sarah snapped a picture of me and Dana in Bo Kaap.

A rainbow of colors in Bo Kaap.

A rainbow of colors in Bo Kaap.

We finished our meandering route to the waterfront in time for our ferry to Robben Island, our last stop for the day. This island is home to the prison that housed Nelson Mandela and thousands of other political prisoners during apartheid, and is accessible only by boat. Like the District Six Museum we all learned a lot here…but it was difficult to listen to the conditions the prisoners had to survive from a former prisoner himself. The visit was very worthwhile even though we all left in a very melancholy mood.

The ladies on the pier before boarding the ferry.

The ladies on the pier before boarding the ferry.

Looking back on Cape Town from the ferry to Robben Island.

Looking back on Cape Town from the ferry to Robben Island.

In addition to political prisoners, lepers were sent to Robben Island because no one knew what to do with them. Here is the graveyard where all deceased lepers were buried.

In addition to political prisoners, lepers were sent to Robben Island because no one knew what to do with them. Here is the graveyard where all deceased lepers were buried.

Our tour stopped for a photo op so we convinced another tourist to take a picture of the three of us (in descending height order, of course).

Our tour stopped for a photo op so we convinced another tourist to take a picture of the three of us (in descending height order, of course).

Sparks, our guide, explained the identification cards the prisoners were required to carry...as we listened in the group cell he spent 7 years in.

Sparks, our guide, explained the identification cards the prisoners were required to carry...as we listened in the group cell he spent 7 years in.

Nelson Mandela's cell.

Nelson Mandela's cell.

By the time our ferry returned to the V&A Waterfront, a thick fog had set in and we could barely see the dock. Rather than trying to find a place to eat with a view (which was completely obscured at that point), we headed to Belthazar and had steaks at the bar – a great way to end a long day exploring Cape Town.

We woke up on Saturday happy to see clear skies for hiking. Rather than taking one of the trails that leads to Table Mountain – which are apparently very hard – we decided to hike up Lion’s Head. This smaller peak adjacent to Table Mountain provides great views of Cape Town and Table Mountain with a slightly less strenuous route to the top. Feeling ambitious, we walked from our guest house to the trail head…which we probably wouldn’t recommend because that in itself is quite a climb!  

Looking up at Lion's Head...after about an hour walking uphill on the road to get to the trailhead!

Looking up at Lion's Head...after about an hour walking uphill on the road to get to the trailhead!

Almost to the top - pretty steep climb!

Almost to the top - pretty steep climb!

The reward for our hike: this view of Table Mountain.

The reward for our hike: this view of Table Mountain.

This view of Cape Town isn't bad either.

This view of Cape Town isn't bad either.

Three amigos after a long hike.

Three amigos after a long hike.

After resting at the top of Lion's Head for half an hour or so we headed down to find some lunch. Fortunately, Sarah had already scouted out Liquorice & Lime - a great place not far from the trailhead. We all ate well and rehydrated before returning to our guest house for a siesta (well, Dana and I had a siesta; Sarah went shopping!). We returned to the waterfront for an early dinner and headed to bed to rest up before driving up to Inverdoorn Game Reserve for day one of our safari tomorrow!