Ayutthaya

After wrapping up some additional sightseeing in Bangkok on Sunday, we took a two-hour train ride north to Ayutthaya. Ayutthaya is en route to Chiang Mai - our next stop - and the former capital of Thailand, making it home to ruins and tons of temples and former temples. While the train was not air conditioned, our tickets cost less than a dollar each so we braved the heat and watched the Thai countryside pass by.

Sunset somewhere between Bangkok and Ayutthaya.

From the train station we hailed a tuk-tuk to our guest house for the night and were pleasantly surprised at how nice our accommodations were (I know it's cheap in Thailand but spending $25 a night for a nice, comfortable room with all the amenities just doesn't feel right). We walked through town in search of dinner and found a quiet local spot on the water. Not much English was spoken (which makes us nervous only because of Alex's nut allergies) but we managed and had a wonderful meal for less than $15 (I just can't get over it!).

View of the Wat Phanan Choeng, just across the river from our table.

Once we returned to our guesthouse, our host Jaena took the time to greet us and help create a tour for us to see the ruins by bike on Monday. Feeling excited and prepared we headed off to bed to get some sleep before a long day in the sun.

We woke up early and packed up our bags before heading out for Thai iced coffee (made with condensed milk, it is sweet and a really great indulgence at about $1 for a giant cup) to jumpstart the day.

We ended up biking around from temple to temple, stopping only to rest and have some lunch and by late afternoon we were exhausted.

Wat Phra Si Samphet.

Wat Phra Ram.

Lunch beak. Seafood curry in a coconut? Yes, please!

One of the many Buddhas at Wat Maha That.

Same Buddha from another angle.

When our guide said we could "see a Buddha head in the tree over there" we thought it would be a little less literal!

Different Buddha with more ruins of Wat Maha That in the background.

Before heading back to the guesthouse we needed to grab a quick dinner nearby. With limited restaurant options - though food stalls are everywhere - we finally tested out the night market. Alex survived!!! For less than $10 (including tip) we had three entrees and a few beers and also confirmed a few dishes that appear to be 100% nut-free all the time. It's nerve-wracking for Alex to take the first bite of anything here but we are both happy that it has worked out so well so far (knock on wood).

Alex with pad see ew - his new favorite Thai dish.

Jaena was nice enough to let us shower at the guesthouse even though we had checked out in the morning (SO grateful - we were covered in sweat and bug spray and the train to Chiang Mai is overnight, clocking in at 12 hours minimum) so we cleaned up before heading to the train station and saying goodbye.

We only spent 24 hours in Ayutthaya but Alex and I both agreed it was an amazing place that should warrant a stop for anyone traveling through Thailand.

Bangkok

As the point of entry for most travelers who visit Thailand, Bangkok gets a pretty bad rep. Most reviews warn others to get in and get out as quickly as possible. After spending just two days here, it's easy to understand why: traffic is abysmal, it's crowded, hot and dirty, and the must-see sights are often alongside the slum-like neighborhoods throughout the sprawling city.

But underneath the rough exterior is a place well worth a visit (if you do it right and come prepared). Our advice:

1. Stay in a modern hotel. There are plenty of places with everything you could need for less than $50 a night. You will want creature comforts after a long day of sightseeing and sensory overload (think comfy beds, AC, WiFi, a bar and a pool).

2. Take advantage of the exchange rate. Thailand is super cheap and even nicer restaurants cost fractions of US prices. I've been dying to get a massage because the offers are so reasonable!

3. DO NOT plan on walking everywhere. This was our biggest mistake - the temples and sights are spread out and the maps make them seem closer than they appear. More importantly, the streets and areas you traverse through are not scenic or charming. Also, it is HOT! But...

4. Tuk-tuks are always available, fun and cheap - by far the best way to get around and explore the city. We had a tourist officer (usually hanging around many of the main sights) hire a tuk-tuk to take us around for a couple hours for about $3. Special note: the drivers are in cahoots with the tailors and tourist agencies and will try to add these stops to your itinerary. We felt bad - and were caught off guard the first time - so we obliged the driver and looked around a fabric store for a few minutes. But be prepared and just say no!

5. Plan for meals. Given Alex's nut allergy we can't depend on street food for a quick meal (and honestly in the 90-degree heat we didn't want spicy soup noodles or intimidating fried objects anyway). We figured with over 7,000 restaurants in Bangkok we wouldn't have trouble locating a small Thai place or cafe, especially near major tourist spots, but we were wrong. (This ties in with the previous point on walking too).

Overall I think two days is the right amount of time to spend in Bangkok. We have to connect back through here for another night or two and I'm excited to see the few sights we missed and take a boat ride down the river, but I'm happy we are moving on within Thailand. Below are some of our favorite images from the past couple of days:

Wat Pho is known best for the Reclining Buddha but the outside grounds are pretty nice too!

More of the many chedi surrounding the temples.

Posing for a picture in one of the elaborate gates at Wat Pho.

There are over 1,000 Buddha images in the temple - here are just a few.

And then we found these more elaborate ones just down the hall.

One more from Wat Pho. The Reclining Buddha is so big that it's basically impossible to photograph properly from inside the temple, but you can get an idea of what it looked like here.

The temple courtyard at Wat Benchamabophit.

We loved the blue contrast behind this Buddha at Wat Benchamabophit.

Buddha at Wat Saket (the views from the top of the "golden mount" weren't great because it was a bit hazy when we were there - but definitely worth the trek up the stairs!).

Tuk-tuk...the only way to get around in Bangkok!

Decent sunset view from our hotel as we relaxed after a hectic day!