Back to Bangkok

Getting across Southeast Asia has actually proven to be a bit more complicated than we originally thought. Having read that overland border crossings were somewhat sketchy (think: bribes, broken down buses and long, tiring nights), we decided to fly between Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam as air travel is still very cheap. However, this has resulted in three additional stopovers in Bangkok, which as you will note from my prior post, is not really preferable.

On Friday, we flew back to Bangkok from Chiang Mai and I swear it was even hotter and more humid than when we left. We made sure all of our Vietnam visa forms were in order and then walked to the river to catch a "water taxi" to Wat Arun. Sadly, the sun had already disappeared behind the incredibly thick haze but catching the temple at dusk was still a very pretty sight.

The temple was just closing so most of the surrounding areas were deserted.

The temple grounds were all very well manicured.

Wat Arun, sadly covered in scaffolding.

Just after sunset.

Nighttime view from across the river.

After taking in the night views of Wat Arun from a rooftop bar across the river, we headed to Asiatique for dinner and a stroll through the outdoor night market.

We woke up early this morning so we could enjoy a home-cooked breakfast at our guesthouse before heading to the airport. We fly to Hanoi in a few hours and we are both excited to explore Vietnam!

Bangkok

As the point of entry for most travelers who visit Thailand, Bangkok gets a pretty bad rep. Most reviews warn others to get in and get out as quickly as possible. After spending just two days here, it's easy to understand why: traffic is abysmal, it's crowded, hot and dirty, and the must-see sights are often alongside the slum-like neighborhoods throughout the sprawling city.

But underneath the rough exterior is a place well worth a visit (if you do it right and come prepared). Our advice:

1. Stay in a modern hotel. There are plenty of places with everything you could need for less than $50 a night. You will want creature comforts after a long day of sightseeing and sensory overload (think comfy beds, AC, WiFi, a bar and a pool).

2. Take advantage of the exchange rate. Thailand is super cheap and even nicer restaurants cost fractions of US prices. I've been dying to get a massage because the offers are so reasonable!

3. DO NOT plan on walking everywhere. This was our biggest mistake - the temples and sights are spread out and the maps make them seem closer than they appear. More importantly, the streets and areas you traverse through are not scenic or charming. Also, it is HOT! But...

4. Tuk-tuks are always available, fun and cheap - by far the best way to get around and explore the city. We had a tourist officer (usually hanging around many of the main sights) hire a tuk-tuk to take us around for a couple hours for about $3. Special note: the drivers are in cahoots with the tailors and tourist agencies and will try to add these stops to your itinerary. We felt bad - and were caught off guard the first time - so we obliged the driver and looked around a fabric store for a few minutes. But be prepared and just say no!

5. Plan for meals. Given Alex's nut allergy we can't depend on street food for a quick meal (and honestly in the 90-degree heat we didn't want spicy soup noodles or intimidating fried objects anyway). We figured with over 7,000 restaurants in Bangkok we wouldn't have trouble locating a small Thai place or cafe, especially near major tourist spots, but we were wrong. (This ties in with the previous point on walking too).

Overall I think two days is the right amount of time to spend in Bangkok. We have to connect back through here for another night or two and I'm excited to see the few sights we missed and take a boat ride down the river, but I'm happy we are moving on within Thailand. Below are some of our favorite images from the past couple of days:

Wat Pho is known best for the Reclining Buddha but the outside grounds are pretty nice too!

More of the many chedi surrounding the temples.

Posing for a picture in one of the elaborate gates at Wat Pho.

There are over 1,000 Buddha images in the temple - here are just a few.

And then we found these more elaborate ones just down the hall.

One more from Wat Pho. The Reclining Buddha is so big that it's basically impossible to photograph properly from inside the temple, but you can get an idea of what it looked like here.

The temple courtyard at Wat Benchamabophit.

We loved the blue contrast behind this Buddha at Wat Benchamabophit.

Buddha at Wat Saket (the views from the top of the "golden mount" weren't great because it was a bit hazy when we were there - but definitely worth the trek up the stairs!).

Tuk-tuk...the only way to get around in Bangkok!

Decent sunset view from our hotel as we relaxed after a hectic day!