Packed and caffeinated, Alex and I left Airlie beach Monday morning ready for a full day of driving. We estimated the drive to Agnes Water would take about nine hours, including stops, so we wanted to get a pretty early start.
As has been the case with our other drives down the Australian coast, we had sunny skies, beautiful scenery and very little traffic. Given these ideal road-trip conditions, we weren’t really anticipating any complications. That is, until we realized we were in the middle of nowhere with less than a quarter tank and no gas stations in sight. Given the number of rest stops and signage along the road - Australia is big on preventing sleep-related accidents, even offering free coffee along the way - we were surprised we didn’t come across any signs indicating the distance until the next gas station. We tried to keep a positive attitude as we searched for any signs of civilization, but after we had to stop for roadwork and the gas light came on, we both started to panic a little.
At first, our trusty rental car indicated that we had about 75 kilometers worth of gas, which I knew was enough to make it to the next town, but after a short while the distance indicator disappeared and the entire display began flashing a gas indicator logo at us…which was about the time we turned off the A/C and I cursed myself for being an idiot. We drove along steadily and quietly for another twenty minutes, leaning forward to read any upcoming signs, letting each and every vehicle pass us and wondering what we would actually do if we ran out of gas. Without cell phone service, how would we call anyone? Who would we call even if we could make a call? In 90 degree heat would we physically be able to walk far enough to get to the closest gas station? Do people hitchhike in Australia?
Thankfully, as if its location was selected specifically for lost backpackers just like us, we finally came across a gas station. We pulled up next to a campervan that had passed us earlier and the driver immediately said “I didn’t think we’d make it!” (They were running on fumes too!) We laughed and told them we were panicking too, at which he grinned and said “So that’s why you guys were driving so slow! We were behind the tailwind from a truck and we wanted to keep close to him to reduce the air-drag on our van!" After filling up - at completely inflated prices - we felt slightly less stupid knowing we were not alone. Lesson learned: it never hurts to top off your gas tank before beginning a long journey into unknown Australian territory!
Alex completed the rest of the drive like a champ and we made it to Agnes Water by late afternoon. We had just enough time to drop off our laundry and head out for a walk to stretch our legs before sunset. Agnes Water is definitely the smallest town in Australia we have been to so far, but it has some very nice, quiet beaches.
This pup was playing with his owners on the beach but came over to us to say hi.
Driftwood on the beach.
After watching the sunset we decided to walk to a nearby café I had read about for dinner. Unfortunately, the café turned out to be 1. More than a mile away down a pitch-black street, and 2. Closed! We walked back and grabbed dinner at the closest restaurant we could find – which was thankfully still open – before calling it a day.
Tuesday morning we kicked off the day with a run (well I did more of a run / walk given the extreme heat) and some well-deserved smoothies before heading briefly to the Town of 1770, which is aptly named for the year in which Captain Cook landed here. Besides the beach (and history plaques commemorating Cook and his crew), there really isn’t much to see in 1770, so after snapping some photos we hopped in the car and headed south to Hervey Bay.
Looking out at the boats anchored near 1770.
Alex snapped a quick picture of me climbing on the rocks.
We checked in to our new digs for the next three days – the Emeraldene Eco Lodge – and mapped out the next few days with our helpful host, “the Robster.” After planning tomorrow’s trip to Fraser Island, we drove down to the pier to walk around and see the sunset. The pier is over a kilometer long, which provides a great view of the sun falling behind the town.
The Urangan Pier.
I found a HUGE pelican perched on the pier! I was able to get pretty close for this picture...though I was a little nervous!
Alex snapped this incredible picture of this seagull and the sunset.
We had just enough energy left for a great dinner at Coast, which had been recommended by Tripdvisor, our map and Rob (a.k.a. the “Robster”). The food was incredible – Rob accurately described it as “an experience” – and definitely worth a stop if you’re visiting Fraser Island! It was a great end to a couple days of traveling for us; we’re excited to explore Fraser Island tomorrow!