Alex and I arrived in Buenos Aires late on Wednesday night eager to explore the city. We were pretty tired from a long day of travel and after we got settled into our hostel we went out for a very Argentinian-timed dinner around 9pm. I located La Vinya de Defensa, a family-owned spot down the street, and we headed there for tapas and red wine. The menu was a small chalkboard consisting of five daily tapas; since they recommended two per person and one contained nuts, our decision was pretty easy! Our hosts were lovely and even prepared a special steak dish for us since it was our first time in the city ("You are in Argentina, you must eat steak!"). If you are ever in San Telmo, definitely stop by for the amazing blue cheese scones.
Thursday morning we woke up feeling refreshed and set out to conquer some of the recommendations we've from friends along the way (Thanks Jennifer, David, Tierney and Mathias!).
First stop: Florida Street to get some cash, easily the sketchiest thing Alex and I have ever done. For the uninitiated, Florida Street is where a bunch of local guys (and girls) yell "Cambio!" at everyone, hoping to exchange currency for Argentinian Pesos. Our friends - and even guidebooks - directed us here because the exchange rate you get is approximately 30-40% better than the official rate, which you would get by simply withdrawing pesos from an ATM or using a credit card (click here for a better explanation). After negotiating with a handful of sketchy looking people and moving to a "back office" so we didn't have to exchange money on the street, we emerged with our spending money for Argentina. For context, the official rate was 8.7 pesos / 1 USD, our hostel offered us 10 / 1 and we got 12.5 / 1 on the street (we could have gotten 13 / 1 if we'd been carrying $50- or $100-bills but we only had $20s from Peru).
After an exhilarating morning experience, we walked toward Recoleta for lunch and to check out the famed cemetery.
The Recoleta Cemetery is as well manicured as a park, with beautiful walkways and trees.
Just strolling through a cemetery.
Alex and I marveled at how large and imposing some of the mausoleums were.
One of the biggest tombs in the cemetery.
The cemetery was a very unique place with beautiful architecture; definitely the least creepy cemetery we've ever been too! We left wondering how much it costs to be buried there and/or how famous you need to be (Evita is one of the notable names laid to rest at Recoleta).
After visiting the cemetery, we continued walking west toward Palermo and eventually to our dinner reservation at I Latina. At the recommendation of a friend, we decided to splurge and try their 7-course tasting menu (the restaurant holds the #1 spot on trip advisor out of 2,300 others so I was easily convinced!). Great call - each course was unique, well prepared and delicious. The three Colombian siblings who run the place also graciously accommodated Alex's allergies and thoughtfully described each part of the meal.
Only the bread course, but really great. Alex had nut-free banana bread and we both enjoyed the cheese balls!
The restaurant is located in a beautiful old mansion. At 8pm, we were one of the earliest seatings (the meal still lasted until 11pm!) so we had a great view of the kitchen.
Friday morning we walked to the historic neighborhood of La Boca, known for its bright buildings and working-class residents. Now a popular tourist destination in Buenos Aires, the area seems to have lost a bit of its seedy reputation (at least during the daytime). We enjoyed walking around and sipping coffee at an outdoor café but took a pass on posing for tango photos or buying the many trinkets being hawked at us.
Graffiti on the walk to La Boca.
Most of the brightly colored buildings were composed of old scraps / shipping containers.
After lunch we are heading to a different hotel in Palermo Soho so we can check out a different area of the city. Tomorrow night we head to Mendoza!