Yellowstone

Miles: 215

Route: Jackson Hole, WY - Yellowstone National Park - Island Park, ID

I woke up inexplicably at 5:30am on Wednesday morning so Alex and I got a pretty early start on our drive to Yellowstone. At 7:01am we were the first customers at Jackson Whole so we quickly grabbed some coffee and sandwiches to go before heading out of town.

The drive to Yellowstone National Park from Jackson Hole is beautiful, winding past the Teton Mountains and through Grand Teton National Park, and Alex and I couldn’t help but stop numerous times along the way to take in the views.

Such a nice drive through the mountains.

Such a nice drive through the mountains.

View of Grand Teton in the morning sun.

View of Grand Teton in the morning sun.

Another stop to check out Grand Teton.

Another stop to check out Grand Teton.

Morning sun reflecting off of the mountains.

Morning sun reflecting off of the mountains.

Since there were so few other visitors at the early hour I had a hard time finding someone to take our picture. The first man I asked - using my patented method of offering to take his picture first so that he would then offer to take ours - actually responded “No thanks, trying to stay out of trouble today.” Huh? Feeling rejected and confused we finally found someone else - no negotiation required - after a massive bus filled with tourists stopped alongside us.

Posing with my mountain man.

Posing with my mountain man.

After a very leisurely drive to the park entrance we were informed by a brusque ranger that the normal road to Old Faithful (15 miles, 30 minutes) was closed so we would have to drive around the entire park (79 miles, 3 hours) instead if we wanted to reach the famous geyser. Thankful that we had a full day to explore, we resigned ourselves to the fact that we would be doing more driving than hiking in order to experience Yellowstone.

Our first stop in the park was an overlook next to Yellowstone Lake, which was extremely serene and quiet, except for a few ducks searching for the warmest water.

Our first view of Yellowstone Lake.

Our first view of Yellowstone Lake.

Crystal clear water and skies.

Crystal clear water and skies.

We then headed to the West Thumb Geyser Basin where we got to walk around an “active geothermal area” and check out turquoise pools and underground geysers. There were numerous signs instructing visitors to stay on marked paths given the extreme heat of the boiling lava just beneath the earth’s surface, which made us a little nervous!

While we walked around the steaming springs we both had two observations about Yellowstone: 1. Geysers are definitely the primary attraction and 2. The park is geared toward mass tourism. Every "attraction" was very accessible (mostly by car) and almost all paths were paved - a very different feel from the more outdoors-y parks we have been exploring over the last few days.

Looking out onto the West Thumb Geyser Basin.

Looking out onto the West Thumb Geyser Basin.

Hot steam rising from the geysers.

Hot steam rising from the geysers.

Pretty colorful pools..

Pretty colorful pools..

On our way to see the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone we stopped at a more secluded spot to check out the lake again. It was pretty peaceful and also nice to briefly escape the hustle of all the other tourists buzzing about.

Another view of Yellowstone Lake.

Another view of Yellowstone Lake.

Standing in front of Yellowstone Lake.

Standing in front of Yellowstone Lake.

We drove to the vista along the Canyon and hoped for some nice paths we could hike to better explore the area; unfortunately, in keeping with the theme of making the park accessible to all tourists, the “hiking paths” were also almost entirely flat and paved. While the trails weren’t exactly what we expected, the views were still pretty great.

Looking down at the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.

Looking down at the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.

I took this shot of Alex after I slipped trying to walk toward the overlook and decided I'd just stay put.

I took this shot of Alex after I slipped trying to walk toward the overlook and decided I'd just stay put.

Another view of the canyon. We could actually see across to the opposite rim where other tourists were.

Another view of the canyon. We could actually see across to the opposite rim where other tourists were.

After checking out the Canyon we were off to Old Faithful. Alex had mentioned that the geyser erupts approximately every 90 minutes so I expected to wait (along with the massive crowd) for a while before seeing the “money shot.” The park actually advertises the next eruption time, accurate within 10 minutes, and luckily we were there just in time! We only had to wait about five minutes before experiencing the main event.

A lot of iPads also captured this shot - we were surrounded by other tourists!

A lot of iPads also captured this shot - we were surrounded by other tourists!

While seeing Old Faithful was pretty cool, there isn’t much else to see once the geyser stops shooting water into the sky. We walked a bit off the beaten path to eat our packed lunch and then headed to our last stop within the park: Mid-Basin Geyser.

We thought this was one of the more beautiful parts of the park - so many different colors!

We thought this was one of the more beautiful parts of the park - so many different colors!

After a long day of driving around the park we were ready to head to our hotel for the evening - but not before being interrupted by a massive bison!

We wondered why cars were pulled over...until we saw the huge bison right next to the road!

We wondered why cars were pulled over...until we saw the huge bison right next to the road!

We made our way to Island Park, ID - home for the night - and settled in to our rustic wood cabin. We hadn't realized how remote the hotel location was but it was a 15 mile drive to the closest restaurant! We ended up going to Trouthunter, a lodge / store / restaurant. The food was pretty good but the real attraction was the sunset view from the deck.

Sunset over Henry's Fork on the Snake River.

Sunset over Henry's Fork on the Snake River.

Another sunset shot.

Another sunset shot.

After dinner we made it back to catch the season premier of Law & Order: SVU, which was the perfect way to end the day (at least for me!). Tomorrow we have a pretty manageable drive to Salt Lake City so hopefully we have some time to explore!

Jackson Hole

Miles: 470

Route: Grand Lake, CO - Jackson Hole, WY

After a restful night in our hunting lodge of a hotel, Sarah and I got up early to go to the gym before a full day of driving to Jackson Hole. Unfortunately, like pretty much everything in the very small town of Grand Lake, CO, the gym did not open before 9am. So we got an even earlier start than we expected!

Our first stop on Monday morning was Grand Lake’s namesake: since it was getting dark when we got in on Sunday we wanted to actually see the lake before leaving town. We were glad we took the time for this brief detour - the lake was very quiet and calm, a great way to kick off a long day of driving.

Sarah’s take-away from this picture: “Look at those boat garages!”

Sarah’s take-away from this picture: “Look at those boat garages!”

We spent the rest of the day driving to Jackson Hole. The scenery was beautiful - my favorite drive by far! - but the weather was unpredictable. We drove through three different thunderstorms with heavy rain, but after we passed through each we were greeted with sunny skies and beautiful open plains.

We passed over the Continental Divide a couple times but it was never as well marked as it was here.

We passed over the Continental Divide a couple times but it was never as well marked as it was here.

The first third and last third of the drive yesterday were on roads like this - a welcome change from the monotonous interstate through Kansas.

The first third and last third of the drive yesterday were on roads like this - a welcome change from the monotonous interstate through Kansas.

Hard to complain about driving through countryside like this.

Hard to complain about driving through countryside like this.

We were almost to Jackson but we had to stop at a pull-off to take in this view.

We were almost to Jackson but we had to stop at a pull-off to take in this view.

Despite the beautiful scenery on the drive, we were ready to get out of the car by the time we arrived at 5:30pm. We booked a room through AirBNB and our host, Teri, was waiting to greet us at her house. She gave us some good recommendations and we headed to downtown Jackson to explore. It’s a very charming, small mountain town that has a bunch of local restaurants, bars, shops, etc. We grabbed a local beer at the Snake River Brewery then walked over to MacPhails for a burger - the prefect end to the day.

This morning we started the day with coffee and a pastry at Persephone then grabbed a few sandwiches for lunch later at Jackson Whole, which is modeled exactly after Whole Foods (so much so that I’m half convinced there is an official affiliation...).

With our lunches packed we drove about half an hour outside Jackson to Teton Village, where the Jackson Hole Tram is based. This massive tram can take 600 visitors (and skiers during the season) an hour to the top of Rendezvous Mountain. Our plan was to do the tram in the morning then explore Grand Teton National Park in the afternoon, but the top of the mountain was still covered in clouds when we arrived at 10am - so we decided to switch up the plan.

On the road to Grand Teton National Park.

On the road to Grand Teton National Park.

Fall is in full swing in Jackson!

Fall is in full swing in Jackson!

When we arrived at the Grand Teton National Park entrance we were told we couldn’t drive more than four miles into the park on our road because a large section is closed due to a roaming Grizzly Bear that “doesn’t like crowds.” Didn’t matter to us since the trail we wanted to hike was still accessible, but it put us a little on edge about running into this Grizzly or some of his relatives. Fortunately we had no bear sightings on our hike - just beautiful views.

Trail up to Phelps Lake.

Trail up to Phelps Lake.

Phelps Lake overlook. Definitely worth the uphill hike!

Phelps Lake overlook. Definitely worth the uphill hike!

After eating lunch at the overlook, we walked over to Death Canyon. All of the canyon walls were formed with jagged rock like this - easy to see how it got its name.

After eating lunch at the overlook, we walked over to Death Canyon. All of the canyon walls were formed with jagged rock like this - easy to see how it got its name.

Another view of the lake on our way back.

Another view of the lake on our way back.

Looking down the other side of the mountain. No lake view, but still gorgeous!

Looking down the other side of the mountain. No lake view, but still gorgeous!

With the clouds clear, we drove back to the Tram and took a ride to the "Top of the World." The views from the top were breathtaking - very glad we waited for the clouds to clear!

Grand Teton National Park.

Grand Teton National Park.

Cheesin' at the Top of the World.

Cheesin' at the Top of the World.

Looking back toward Jackson.

Looking back toward Jackson.

After taking the tram down we headed back to Snake River Brewing for dinner - Sarah did some research and found out that in addition to making award-winning beer, they also make award-winning chili. We had a hearty dinner then came home to Teri’s house to get some rest. Tomorrow we’re getting up super early to get in as much time at Yellowstone as possible. Fingers crossed for good weather!